Okonomiyaki

It's an international constant: savory fried discs of eggy batter studded with goodies are delicious. The latest iteration of such foodstuff to cross my plate is the Japanese okonomiyaki, which I had for the first time a couple months ago at a local Japanese grocery and food stand in Ardmore, Maido!, which also provided all the ingredients necessary to make such a quick and tasty treat at home (I am beyond thrilled to have this market a mere two blocks away!). Okonomiyaki is a Japanese pancake which, like all other pancakes, is eminently customizable. Since I've taken to making them at home, I have made a slightly different version each time, depending on what's in the fridge. The recurring themes are usually shrimp, cabbage, bacon and the toppings, bonito flakes and the umami-licious okonomiyaki sauce. Bonito flakes really are a wonder; fine filaments of deep fish flavor that wave and undulate lightly the moment they alight onto the pancake. I highly recommend getting yourself a stockpile online if you're not close to any Asian retailer.

Forgive the photos - I have to change the lighting in my kitchen, somehow.

Okonomiayki
Makes two entree-size pancakes or four 6-inch pancakes

Recipe adapted from the recipe affixed to the packaging on my bottle of Otafuku Okonomi Sauce!

*1 cup flour
*2/3 cup very cold water
*Big pinch dashi granules
*Big pinch sea salt
*4 eggs, beaten
*1 cup green cabbage, cut into thin strips and chopped
*3 scallions, sliced thin, plus an extra sliced scallion for garnish
*1 heaving cup of mixed meat/seafood (I usually use small shrimp, sliced in half lengthwise, bay scallops and squid, plus a couple crumbled strips of fried bacon)
*Peanut or Vegetable oil, for frying
*Okonomi sauce (sold in Asian retailers, or you can find recipes online), for garnish
*Bonito flakes, for garnish
*Kewpie mayonnaise is good on this too, I just happen to be all out


Mix the flour, dashi, salt and water in a bowl, then add the beaten eggs. Stir until combined; it doesn't have to be lump-free. Throw in the meat and vegetables, then set aside and heat the oil in a skillet over medium. When hot, ladle batter out to make the first pancake. Cook about 5 minutes on each side, then dish out and top with all the garnishes. Repeat with the rest of the batter 'n dig in.

Spaghetti alla Puttanesca

Some traditional Italian pasta dishes have fabulously evocative names; like spaghetti alla carbonara, this pasta dish also paints a vivid picture of its supposed originators. Puttanesca derives from puttana, a prostitute, and the name connotes an easy, cheap, and deeply savory meal a working girl might hasten to throw together between, ahem, clients. Whatever its real origins, I love the name. Slattern spaghett'.

Those familiar with the basic ingredients of puttanesca might note that cured olives go conspicuously missing in mine. As I've mentioned a few times before, I just can't ....do....olives... but, I do love tapenade! The tapenade I use is actually a sundried tomato version which I absolutely adore and think adds a lot to the flavor of the sauce, so if you opt for a 1/4 cup of cured olives instead of tapenade, maybe chop up a few sundried tomatoes too! Puttanesca, much like its namesakes of yore, is very accommodating.  

Spaghetti alla Puttanesca
Makes 3 servings

Adapted from A Food Obsession

*1/2 lb high quality spaghetti (De Cecco! I never use anything else.)
*EVOO
*3 large cloves of garlic, minced
*6 anchovies, chopped
*1 tablespoon chopped capers
*Pinch red pepper flakes
*1 1/2 cups crushed tomatoes
*Pinch sugar
*Pinch oregano
*Freshly ground black pepper
*1 "big spoonful" tapenade, about 2-3 tablespoons (or, cured olives)
*3-4 leaves basil, torn

Heat a puddle of evoo in a pot over medium and melt the anchovies into the oil for a bit before adding the garlic, capers, and a big pinch of red pepper flakes. After a minute or so, pour in the tomatoes and stir in the tapenade with a pinch of sugar and oregano. Tear in the basil leaves and grind some pepper into the mix, too.

Let the sauce cook over medium-low, stirring frequently, as you put the pot of water on to boil for the pasta. Salt the water well and boil the spaghetti until al dente, then drain and toss with the sauce. Reserve a smidge of the pasta water in case the dish is a little dry.

Kedgeree

It's fun to learn what other people keep as mainstays in their kitchen. You think you know a person, only to find out that they are opening tins of "kipper snacks" and getting to the bottom of tubs of goats' milk yogurt on the regular. Such was my experience when I agreed to house/pet sit for a good friend of mine; she left me a panoply of groceries and a note encouraging me to take anything in the pantry or fridge that I wanted, so I of course had to take stock. In the pantry were a couple boxes of aforementioned kipper snacks and in the fridge, a half-empty carton of goats' milk yogurt plus another, unopened. I was fascinated and delighted. Eyeballing the kippers, I thought to use them in a batch of kedgeree, a Brit-Indian dish of spiced rice, eggs and smoked fish first brought to my attention at the superlative Lawrence in Montreal. I decided that the dish could use a little tang, so I stirred in some of the goats' milk yogurt as well - it turned out to be fabulous. Every spoonful yielded tasty fish fragments, greenery, voluptuous egg, warming spices and toothsome rice. I loved it. I think I'll be stacking kipper snacks in my pantry from now on, too. Maybe leave the goats' milk yogurt to my friend, though.

Kedgeree
Makes 2-4 servings

*1 organic egg per intended serving

*2 1/2 cups leftover cooked basmati rice (Cooked with a shard of cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, a couple crushed cardamom pods, and a clove, ideally!)
*1 tablespoon ghee or butter

*1 small onion, somewhere between diced and minced

*1 clove garlic, minced

*1 teaspoon Madras curry powder

*1/2 teaspoon turmeric

*1 teaspoon cumin

*1/4 teaspoon coriander

*1 tin smoked kipper fillets (or smoked haddock, or another smoked fish), flaked, pin bones removed

*Good handful chopped parsley and cilantro

*1 heaping spoonful Greek or goat yogurt       

*S&P

Bring a pot of water to a boil and soft-boil the egg(s). Meanwhile, in a wide skillet, melt the ghee over medium-low and saute the onion until soft, then add the garlic. Sprinkle in the spices and let bloom before adding in the rice and fish. Cook a few minutes on low to heat everything up, while you remove the soft-boiled egg. Run it under cold water and peel gently. Stir in the herbs and yogurt, season to taste, dish out and fleck each serving with quartered or chopped soft-boiled egg.

For the record, I did scrape off the skin on the kippers (Crown Prince brand) and fed them to the lovely kitty I'm caring for. If you're not icked by fish-skin then that isn't necessary. 

Caramelized Onion & Anchovy Tart

This is my dead-simple take on the classic Provençal onion tart, pissaladière, which is so uncomplicated in itself that I feel bad about nixing one of the main ingredients in making it palatable for personal consumption. However, I just ... cannot ... do ... olives. It's a major flaw, I know. I get the essential element of brininess from chopped capers, but feel free to be traditional and scatter cured olives about the tart if that's your thing. A slice of this makes for a perfect summer lunch or dinner, paired with crisp greens and a funky Berliner weiss.

In making caramelized onions, I have found the easiest route is to throw a bunch of sliced onions with butter, oil and seasonings in a cast iron pan and caramelize them at 350, stirring every 15, 20 minutes or so, until they're that lovely deep brown and of jammy consistency, about an hour or two. Plan on cutting up more onions than what the recipe calls for - you'll want more of them hanging around, trust me.

Caramelized Onion & Anchovy Tart
Makes 6-8 servings

*1 cup caramelized onions, about 4 onions' worth
*1/2 teaspoon thyme leaves
*1 tin anchovies (use as many as you want, I nearly clear the tin out)
*1 sheet puff pastry, thawed
*1 teaspoon capers, chopped

Preheat the oven to 400. When the puff pastry has thawed, roll it out a few times and put on a lightly cornmeal-dusted baking sheet. Score a thin border around the sheet and spread the onions around inside. Garnish with as many anchovies as you'd like, and rain down some thyme leaves (fresh is preferable but I used dried) over top. Bake for 20-25 minutes until the pastry has risen and is golden brown. Garnish with chopped capers.

Cauliflower Soup with Scallops

Last year around this time I had an absolutely delectable soup at a Talula's Table dinner, and have had savory memories of it from time to time since. When designing my Christmas eve dinner my mind wandered back to it, and I decided to finally take a stab at recapturing that cauliflowery deliciousness. I was inspired by this recipe on Epicurious and after adapting it to suit my tastes (and budget!), am extremely pleased with the end result. This is one voluptuous soup. 

Cauliflower Soup with Scallops

Makes 4-6 servings

*1 scant tablespoon butter

*EVOO

*1 small shallot, minced

*1 garlic clove, minced

*1 medium head cauliflower

*Equal parts chicken stock and water, about 3ish cups of each

*1/4 cup cream

*1 thumbnail size piece of Parmesan rind (or just a piece cut from a wedge)

*S&P (white pepper, if you don't want to blemish the ivory surface of the soup!)

*3-4 bay scallops or 1 sea scallop per serving

Carve the core out of the cauliflower and break the head into small florets. In a pot melt butter over medium heat and drizzle with a dribble of evoo. Sweat the shallot for a few minutes, add the garlic and continue to saute for a few minutes more. Add the cauliflower, then just barely cover with water & chicken stock (around 3-3 1/2 cups of each). Throw in the piece of Parmesan. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 30 minutes with the pot partially covered. When the cauliflower is totally tender, puree everything with an immersion blender and add the cream. Season with salt & white pepper to taste. Pass the soup through a fine mesh sieve to achieve that smooth silky consistency.

Meanwhile, prep the scallops – trim the muscle if necessary and dry the scallops thoroughly. Season with S&P. Heat a skillet over high heat, add a small slick of evoo and sear scallops briefly on both sides, about a minute total for bay scallops and a minute and a half per side for sea scallops. Serve soup in shallow bowls and garnish with the scallops.

Blackened Shrimp Salad with Buttermilk Vinaigrette

The other day I stopped at my beloved local dairy farm, Baily's, to pick up a little pint of buttermilk for weekend pancake dreams. No pints to be found, but the avuncular Mr. Baily sent me packing with a quart for the same price. So, saddled with a largess of buttermilk (a problem anyone should like to face!) I noodled around on chowhound for ideas, and came across the notion of a buttermilk dressing. Instantly I imagined it luxuriously poured over a spinach salad, and the rest came together from there. The buttermilk made for a very tasty, pleasantly sour and tart vinaigrette, which mingled well with the smoky and piquant flavors of blackened seafood. I'm kind of in love with this salad.

Blackened Shrimp Salad
Makes 2 entree size salads or 4 side salads

*8 oz fresh spinach
*A couple slices of stale crusty bread
*1 ear corn, shucked, washed and kernels cut off cob
*A handful of thinly sliced red onion crescents
*10-12 shrimp, shelled and deveined
*2-3 tablespoons blackening spices (you may find my mix recipe here)
*High smoke point oil
*Leaves from 2 sprigs of thyme

Buttermilk Vinaigrette
Loosely adapted from Frank Stitts' Southern Table
Makes about 1/2 cup

*1 tablespoon cider vinegar

*1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

*1 teaspoon minced shallot

*1/4 teaspoon lemon zest

*1/2 teaspoon minced thyme leaves

*1/4 cup buttermilk

*1 heaping tablespoon sour cream

*1 tablespoon evoo
*S&P

Wash and dry the spinach, and prep the croutons. Remove the crusts and then cut the bread into modestly sized cubes. Toss with some sea salt, pepper and olive oil and bake at 300 for about 10-15 mins, flipping once. Meanwhile, toss the shrimp with the blackening spices and set aside while you prepare the vinaigrette.

Combine the vinegar, lemon juice, minced shallot, zest, thyme and pinches of S&P and slowly whisk in the buttermilk and sour cream. When combined, slowly emulsify the evoo within and season to taste. Set aside and heat a cast iron skillet over medium high. When it starts to smoke add a glug of canola oil, swirl around, and then set the shrimp in. Blacken about a minute and a half per side or until cooked through. Beware - there will be smoke! Make sure your exhaust fan is on high or you've got some windows open in the joint.

Throw the spinach, red onions, corn, shrimp, and croutons together, fleck with thyme leaves and then drizzle the dish with the vinaigrette. Freshly cracked pepper and some grains of sea salt to complete.

Fiddlehead & Shrimp Linguine

The lil' curlicues popping up from the dun-brown crowns of awakening ferns are among my favorite signs of spring - namely, because I can eat them. When cooked-crisp, fiddleheads are toothsome and have a lightly grassy, asparagus-esque taste to them. A perfect spring vegetable! You might be able to find them at better farmers' markets or at specialty food stores, but it's always more enjoyable to search them out and collect them yourself! When foraging, make sure you're clipping from edible (most likely ostrich) ferns, and only taking fiddleheads which have not yet unfurled. Regard the picture below to get the right idea. Also, be a pal and don't deplete an entire plant - I usually only take one or two fiddleheads per fern.  In springs past I've simply sauteed them with a hint of butter and s&p as a side for meat, steamed them lightly or even thrown 'em raw into salads, but this time the coiled fronds reminded me of the shrimp I had in the freezer, cutely tucked in similar position.  So, I decided to add them both into tangles of pasta. A little side salad of young dandelion greens, also foraged, completed the springy supper.

Happy foraging!

Fiddlehead and Shrimp Linguine
Makes 1-2 servings

*4 oz linguine
*1 handful fiddlehead ferns, washed thoroughly in a couple changes of water (brown flecks all removed)
*6-8 medium shrimp, cleaned
*2 tablespoons butter
*1 tablespoon minced shallot
*2 cloves garlic, minced
*1 pinch red pepper flakes
*2 tablespoons white wine
*1/2 teapsoon lemon zest
*Juice of 1/2 lemon
*S&P
*Grated Parm-Reg

Set water on to boil for the pasta. Blanch the fiddleheads in another pot of boiling water for about 30 seconds and rinse with cold water. Set aside. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a wide skillet over medium and saute the shallot and garlic for 4-5 minutes, adding a pinch of red pepper flakes near the end. Bump the heat up a little and add the fiddleheads and shrimp; saute about 2 minutes per side. Add the wine and lemon juice to deglaze. Reduce heat, stir in the zest and simmer for a few minutes, seasoning to taste. Drain the pasta and add to the skillet, tossing well. Dish out and dust with Parm-Reg.

Jambalaya with Creole Sauce

When my husband called to say he'd be bringing home some Cajun Kate's crawfish mac for dinner, my mind starting spinning twangy strains of a Hank Williams tune and my attention turned to Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen cookbook sitting on my shelf. Because what goes better with cajun food than more cajun food? It just so happened that I had all the fixings for jambalaya, so I consulted PP's section on the delicious rice dish. There were as many different ways to make jambalaya as there were recipes in the section, so after reading each one for guidance I struck off on my own, and am thrilled with the final result. I paired it with Prudhomme's recipe for "creole sauce", although it would be absolutely perfect on its own. Made for a great side with the fried mac (and will be a delicious lunch for the next few days!)

Jambalaya with Creole Sauce
Makes 5 servings

Jambalaya

*3 tablespoons bacon fat or butter
*3 bay leaves
*1 teaspoon salt
*1/2 teaspoon cayenne
*1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
*1 teaspoon black pepper
*1 teaspoon dried oregano
*1 medium yellow onion, diced
*1 1/2 cups diced green bell pepper
*1 cup diced celery
*3 cloves garlic, minced
*1 lb boneless skinless chicken thighs, trimmed of fat and cut into bite-size pieces
*1 1/2 cups diced tasso (or other smoked ham)
*1/2 cup tomato puree
*1 cup uncooked long-grain rice
*1 1/3 cup chicken stock
*1 teaspoon chipotle Tabasco
*1 cup medium-size raw shrimp, shelled, de-veined and cut in half

Melt the fat in a large dutch oven over medium heat and stir the seasonings together; set aside. Combine the diced vegetables in a bowl and mix well; add two cups of the "trinity" to the pot and saute for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and the spice mixture in the last couple of minutes. Add the chicken, and saute for a few minutes before throwing in the tasso. Cook for another few minutes and then add the tomato puree, rice, stock and Tabasco. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to a low simmer, cover and cook for about 25, 30 minutes. Uncover partially and continue to cook for another 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Take the lid off altogether and bury the raw shrimp pieces in the mixture; cook another 6, 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the shrimp are done. At this point you can serve immediately, or leave it on the stove over very low heat for a while longer. Remember to take the bay leaves out before serving!

Creole Sauce

*3 tablespoons bacon fat or butter
*2 bay leaves
*1/2 teaspoon oregano
*1/2 teaspoon salt
*1 teaspoon black pepper
*1/2 teaspoon cayenne
*1/2 teaspoon paprika
*1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
*The rest of your chopped veg trinity (about 1 1/2 cups)
*3 cloves garlic, minced
*1 1/4 cups chicken stock
*1 cup tomato sauce (or puree)
*1 teaspoon Tabasco, or to taste

Melt the fat in a medium saucepan and mix the seasonings together. Add the vegetables and saute for 10 minutes, adding in the garlic and seasonings towards the end. Stir in the stock, tomato sauce, and Tabasco. Bring to a boil and then simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Remove bay leaves and then blend partially with an immersion blender to thicken the sauce. Simmer until jambalaya is ready to serve. To assemble, ladle creole sauce into a shallow dish and then top with a portion of jambalaya. Dust with chopped parsley, if you wish.

Seared Scallops with Blood Orange Sauce and Bitter Greens

After nearly two weeks straight of soups, stews, and other hearty fare consumed to chase away the flinty chill of deep winter, I felt compelled to make something light and dainty for dinner - especially since the air has warmed and sweetened over the past few days! A flavorful vision of seared scallops, one of my favorite "dainty" foods, and a citrusy, piquant sauce immediately came to mind. My local fine foods grocer has a huge cache of blood oranges right now, so I picked up a few for the sauce cause - it's always a little thrill to slice into a blood orange and see vivid wet crimson, striations of rust and oxblood, when the eyes are primed to expect plain orange.

A small knoll of bitter greens and little ruby-red jewels of pomegranate scattered around the plate completed the scallop scene. It was exactly the kind of delicious and delicate dinner for which I yearned! If you have heavy winter food fatigue as well, you should give this one a go.

 

Seared Scallops with Blood Orange Sauce and Bitter Greens
Makes 2 servings

*6-8 sea scallops
*Juice of 2 blood oranges (about 2/3 cup)
*1 teaspoon dry sherry
*1/2 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns
*2 cups assorted bitter greens (I used rocket, dandelion greens and chicory)
*Seeds from about a quarter of a pomegranate
*Tiny lengthwise snips of a scallion, for garnish
*1 1/2 tablespoons butter + canola oil

Wash and dry your greens and winnow the pomegranate seeds out from within the annals of the fruit, set aside. Rinse and thoroughly pat dry your scallops, making sure to trim the muscle off the sides if need be. Lightly toast the peppercorns until fragrant and grind into a powder in a spice grinder.

Meanwhile, melt the butter with a dribble of canola oil in a cast-iron skillet on medium-high and season the scallops with the pinch of peppercorn dust and kosher salt on each side. When the skillet is hot and the butter has foamed, lay the scallops in and sear on each side for about a minute and a half. Remove to a warm platter, reduce the heat and add the the orange juice, sherry, and the rest of the ground peppercorns to the skillet. Stir, scraping the bottom, until the liquid has thickened and reduced, which will likely happen quickly. Divide the greens and scallops between two plates. Pour the pan sauce through a small sieve and over the scallops, and then scatter some pomegranate seeds around the perimeter. Garnish the scallops with snips of scallion.

Shrimp Curry

I've been sporadically posting because I've been sporadically cooking - late August, early September are always crushingly busy times of the year. And, I'm flying away to the land of vermilion buttes and grand gashes in the earth at the end of the week, so I'm about to get a whole lot quieter! I'll resume regular life and regular posting in late September. Until then, please enjoy this simple curry pieced together from disparate corners of Raghavan Iyer's 660 Curries. The spices are warm and piquant but don't shout over the briny flavor of the shrimp; its a very tasty bowl of food to cook up quickly on my rare idle night during the busy spell.

Shrimp Curry
Makes 2 servings

*Neutral oil
*3/4 lb shrimp, peeled & deveined
*1 teaspoon sugar
*1 teaspoon salt
*1 teaspoon dried thyme
*1/2 teaspoon paprika
*1/2 teaspoon turmeric
*Heaping 1/4 teaspoon garam masala
*Pinch of cayenne, black pepper, coriander
*1/2 yellow onion, chopped
*2 garlic cloves, minced
*1 hot red chili, minced (optional)
*1 softball-sized tomato, chopped
*1/3-1/2 cup coconut milk
*Cilantro for garnish

Toss the shrimp with the spices and pop in the fridge to marinate for about half an hour. Heat a wide skillet over medium high, add a little slick of oil, and then sear the shrimp briefly on each side and transfer to a plate. Turn the heat down a touch and add the onion, chili and garlic to the spiced oil and saute for about 5 minutes before adding the tomato. Cook for another 5 minutes, then blend the softened vegetables in a food processor with coconut milk to thin the mixture. Pour the sauce back into the skillet, add the shrimp, and cook until the shrimp are done, about 4-5 minutes. Serve over rice, garnish with cilantro, and enjoy!

Vietnamese Spring Rolls

Some people get insatiable cravings for chocolate cake; I get mad cravings for softened rice paper. There are some moments where I just could die for a moistened sheet of chewy, glutinous rice paper, rolled neatly around veggies and herbs. Aum! Other household half blanches at the thought, but I just know there are like-minded folk out there. My recipe is infinitely variable; you can essentially pick and choose among the stuffing ingredients or add in others, to your personal taste. If you've never made Vietnamese spring rolls before, I've tried to write detailed instructions on how to fold them, but there are also numerous videos to consult on Youtube that show the process. Once you've got the technique down, banging out a bunch is a snap. Just make sure to eat them relatively soon after making them, as they don't keep very well. Any leftover filling ingredients get chopped up and thrown into a bowl for a tasty next-day lunchtime salad.


This is the best lighting I can manage when I cook after sunset!

 Vietnamese Spring Rolls
Makes 6-8 rolls; 2-3 servings

*6-8 rice paper wrappers (available in Asian grocers and the International section in most large supermarkets)
*1-2 oz rice vermicelli
*1/4 lb raw shrimp, peeled and deveined
*1 small cucumber, peeled (optional), seeded, halved, and cut into thin batons
*1 handful of cilantro leaves
*1 handful of mint leaves
*1 handful of Thai basil leaves
*A couple shiso leaves, torn
*1 jalapeno, seeded and cut into thin slivers
*A lobe of mango, cut into slivers
*A couple leaves of romaine or butter lettuce, cut into strips (if using romaine, its helpful to remove the ribs)
*3 scallions, green parts cut into sections

Boil the rice noodles according to package instructions, about 3 minutes. Drain, then add some cold water to the pot, pop the noodles back in and swirl, then drain again and set aside to cool, fluffing every 10 minutes or so. Fill a small shallow pan with enough water to cover shrimp and bring to a simmer. I usually add a bruised piece of lemongrass stalk, a tablespoon of coriander seeds, and a few dried peppers to the water, but plain eau is fine. Add the shrimp when the water is simmering, and cook for about 3ish minutes or until just cooked through. Drain, cool, and slice in half lengthwise. Pick the rest of your ingredients and cut, rinse, dry...whatever is entailed. Fashion all the fillings into an assembly line of sorts, and then pull out the rice paper wrappers.

To assemble the rolls, run your sink tap until the water is flowing warm-but-not-hot, and gently turn the rice paper wrapper under the stream for about 5 seconds per side to soften it. Lay it on a clean, dry surface and then start to add fillings. I usually put in a nice strip of lettuce first, laying it down near the bottom of the circle, and the lettuce acts as a cradle for the rest to come - a bit of noodles, followed by a little bit of everything else, artfully arranged. Just be careful to not overstuff. Start to roll by grasping the bottom edge and folding it tightly over and around the filling. Once you've got a full revolution and a half in, you can fold the open sides of the roll in towards the center, and then lay a couple sliced shrimp on top before continuing to roll over again, sealing the shrimp in. Once you've rolled to completion, place the tube on a platter, wipe off your surface, and repeat the process with the other wrappers. Serve with sriracha, lime wedges and a dipping sauce of your choice (peanut sauce is good here).

Vegetarian Variation:
Nix the shrimp!

Pork Variations:
Poach thin slices of lean pork until cooked, cool and add to spring rolls. OR, fry bacon and cut to fit - I love the salty crunch this variation offers (and it pairs really well with slices of mango).

Also works with tofu, fried egg strips, chicken, crab, lemongrass beef strips, and so forth. What's YOUR favorite filling combination?

Sea Bass in Chili Bean Sauce

I'm somewhat apologetic about posting a recipe featuring an elusive and sorta expensive ingredient, but if one loves to cook Sichuan cuisine, one must acquire authentic Sichuan dou ban jiang, an amazing paste made from fermented broad (fava) beans and chilis, produced in the Sichuan province. My stock was very thoughtfully ordered for me online by the other household half, and I really, really prize it. In this dish, it acts as the foundation for the rich, sour & spicy maroon sauce in which the fish bathes. I cannot recommend this recipe highly enough, it's one of the most delicious and satisfying fish-dishes I've ever made (or eaten, for that matter).

Sea Bass in Chili Bean Sauce
Serves 2

Recipe from Fuschia Dunlop's Land of Plenty (an indispensable cookbook for those interested in Sichuan cuisine).

*1 whole carp, trout or sea bass, cleaned, with head and tail attached (I used a sea bass that came in at about 1.2 lbs; Whole Foods cleaned and gutted it for me [whew!]).
*Peanut oil
*Kosher salt
*1-2 tablespoons sherry or Shaoxing wine
*4 tablespoons Sichuanese chili bean paste (dou ban jiang)
*1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger
*1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
*1 1/3 cup chicken stock
*1 teaspoon sugar
*1 1/2 teaspoons light soy sauce
*1 1/4 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon of cold water
*1/2 teaspoon black Chinese vinegar
*Chopped scallions for garnish (optional)

With a sharp knife, make 4 shallow diagonal cuts into each side of the fish, and pierce its head a couple of times on each side as well (this releases more of the tasty juices). Rub the fish inside and out with a bit of salt and sherry, and leave to marinate for a spell.

Heat a couple big glugs of peanut oil (about 1/4-1/3 cup) over high heat until smoking. Dry the fish with paper towels and fry it briefly on each side, just long enough to crisp up the skin. Remove carefully (I supported it with 2 metal spatulas) and set aside. Rinse and wipe out the wok before returning it to a burner over medium heat. Add about 4 tablespoons of fresh oil. When it is hot, add the chili bean paste and stir-fry for 20-30 seconds. Add the ginger and garlic and stir-fry for another 20 seconds or so, then pour in all the stock, turn up the heat, and bring the liquid to a boil. Add in the sugar and soy sauce.

Gently place the fish back into the wok and spoon some sauce over it. Turn the heat down, cover, and simmer for 8-10 minutes, turning once during the cooking time. When the fish is done, transfer it to a serving dish. Add the cornstarch mixture to the sauce and stir until it thickens. Stir in the vinegar, and then pour the sauce over the fish. Serve with rice, and watch out for bones!

Blackened Catfish over Macque Choux with Creole Mustard Sauce

Given my feverish love for the greatest of American cities, New Orleans, Cajun cuisine has a special niche in my soul. I get satisfaction out of cooking it not just because the food tastes oh-so-good, but because I feel tangibly connected to the sensory memories I hold so dear from my trips to the Crescent City. This recipe is inspired by some fantastic dishes I had in New Orleans, and may seem a little unwieldy in its length, but the components are all relatively simple and come together harmoniously on the plate.

Blackened Catfish over Macque Choux with Creole Mustard Sauce
Makes 2 servings, with sundry leftovers

Blackened Catfish

*2 catfish fillets (If they are excessively large fillets, you can buy one and then cut in half. Look for ones that are not thicker than about 1/2-3/4 inch thick)
*Tabasco
*Creole blackening spice mix, recipe to follow
*A couple tablespoons of a high smoke-point neutral oil, such as grapeseed or vegetable.

Place a cast-iron skillet over high heat. Rinse and dry fillets; rub with a little Tabasco and then liberally sprinkle both sides with the blackening spices and gently pat into the fishflesh. Once the skillet is ripping-hot and beginning to smoke, swirl some glugs of oil around, shake excess seasonings off the fish, and then lay the fillets in. There will be smoke, so prop open a window and flick on the exhaust fan. Fry undisturbed for about 2 minutes until the fish is nicely blackened on one side, and then flip over to cook for about another two minutes longer on the other side. The frying time will ultimately depend on how thick your fillets are/how hot your skillet is, though.

Creole blackening spice mix

This is a hybrid of the recipes for Emeril's Essence and Paul Prudhomme's blackening spice mix, both easily searchable online, plus some personal additions. Try making your own by tinkering with proportions - just cool it on the thyme because too much dried thyme can make the mix taste muddy.

*2 tablespoons paprika

*2 1/2 teaspoons salt

*1 tablespoon onion powder

*1 tablespoon garlic powder

*2 teaspoon cayenne

*1/2 teaspoon mulatto chili powder (toast dried mulatto chilis+some of their seeds and then grind in spice grinder)

*1 tablespoon black pepper

*1 teaspoon dried thyme

*1 tablespoon dried oregano

Mix together and store in a jar.

Macque Choux

Heavily adapted from here.

*A couple strips of good slab bacon
*4 ears sweet corn
*1/2 yellow onion, finely chopped
*1/2 red bell pepper, finely chopped
*1 small jalapeno, finely chopped (optional)
*2 cloves of garlic, minced
*Scant 1/4 cup chicken stock
*Scant 1/4 cup evaporated milk or cream
*A couple shakes of cayenne
*S&P
*A pinch of sugar
*A couple dashes of Tabasco

Shuck and rinse the corn, and then cut the kernels off the cobs. Make sure you catch the sweet, sweet corn milks...you can run your knife diagonally against the cobs to collect more, or wring them Indian-burn-style. You can make this with frozen corn, but fresh is, obviously, worlds better.

Fry bacon until crisp, and then remove and set aside. Add the chopped onion, garlic and pepper(s) and saute in the bacon fat for 5 minutes before stirring in the reserved corn & milky pulp. Cook another 5 minutes or so, and then add in the liquids and seasonings and simmer just south of medium, stirring occasionally, for 30-odd until most of the liquid has evaporated. Crumble the reserved bacon and incorporate it into the choux.

Creole Mustard Sauce

This is something I usually just make by pinches, squirts and splashes, but I've tried to give more-or-less approximate measurements. Play around until it suits your taste.

*3 tablespoons Creole mustard (I, along with everyone in Louisiana, use Zatarain's)
*1 tablespoon lemon juice
*A pinch of sugar
*2 tablespoons evaporated milk or cream
*Pinch of cayenne
*A couple dashes of Tabasco
*2 tablespoons EVOO
*S&P

Whisk everything but the oil together, and then gradually stream it in while continuing to whisk. S&P to taste. Funnel into a squeeze bottle for easier application.

Saison-steamed Mussels

We had a good 1/3 of a growler left of Victory's Helios Saison and no real designs on drinking the rest over the weekend (especially because other household half got his own growler filled with a double IPA), so I  put it to good use in service of a batch of mussels. It made for a sensational broth, spiked with sea liquor and saison spice. Paired with the last bit of Helios from the bottom of the growler and crusty rustic bread, it was a fantastic, summery dinner.

Saison-steamed Mussels
Makes 2 servings

*2 lb bag of mussels
*2 tablespoons butter
*1/2 onion or a small shallot, minced
*2 cloves garlic, minced
*A pinch of red pepper flakes
*A couple sprigs of thyme
*S&P
*1/2 lemon, juiced
*15-20 oz saison-style beer (For local folk, the aforementioned Helios is a solid saison and pretty inexpensive for a bomber/growler)
*A handful of parsley, chopped
*Lots of crusty bread, preferably toasted and rubbed with garlic
*Lemon slices

Clean and debeard the mussels (instructions here), making absolutely sure to discard ones with broken shells, or that are gaping open and don't close when tapped or under running water.

Melt the butter in a large pot, and add the minced shallot and garlic when it starts to foam. Saute for a couple minutes and then add the thyme, pepper flakes, and a good spangling of S&P, followed by the saison and lemon juice. Bring to a boil, add the mussels, cover, and then lower heat to a simmer for about 5 minutes or until the mussels have opened (it helps to shake the pot a few times throughout the simmer to move everything around). Discard any mussels that still have their trap shut, and ladle the lot into deep bowls with plenty of the delicious broth. Sprinkle the chopped parsley over the mussels and serve with warm, crusty bread and lemon slices.

Bonus recipe - Any leftover broth in the pot? Add a bit of butter and reduce it down until thickened, and then use it to dress fettuccine or spaghetti, with some cut-up cherry tomatoes and lots of parsley (add mussels or bay scallops to make it even better).

Honey-Soy Soba and Poached Salmon

During the summer I greatly prefer lightly dressed soba over other heavier pastas, so you're sure to see a number of soba noodle recipes pop up over the next couple of months. This dish just looks summery too, with its shades of green, coral and light brown, and makes for an easy and refreshing supper to take out onto the porch with a crisp saison or pilsner. Leftovers make a lovely chilled lunch the next day.

Honey-Soy Soba and Poached Salmon
Makes 2 servings + modest lunch leftovers

*1 6oz salmon fillet
*3 bundles of soba noodles
*2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
*2 tablespoons honey
*2 tablespoons sesame oil
*1 teaspoon sherry or rice wine
*2 scallions, green parts sliced
*A couple pinches of toasted sesame seeds

Make the dressing by whisking the honey, oil, sherry, and soy together in a small bowl.
Fill a pan with about two inches of water and bring to a boil. I threw some black peppercorns into a muslin bag and put that in the pan with some kosher salt and a couple bags of green tea to steep while it came to a boil, and then removed all the bags. However, poaching with pure water is fine, especially if you have a nice piece of salmon. When the water boils, bring down to a simmer and slide in the salmon. Poach for 8-10 minutes, depending on the thickness of your fillet/desired doneness.

While the salmon is poaching, boil the soba for 5ish minutes. Drain, rinse, drain again. Toss with the sauce and divide into bowls. Flake up the salmon fillet when it is done and lightly incorporate it into the noodles. Garnish with a spangle of sesame seeds and scallions.

Sichuan Soba & Scallops

The first time I made this, tinkering around with proportions, I ended up creating the fieriest dish ever to come out of my kitchen. It was good! - but upon reaching the bottom of my bowl it felt like I had interior sunburn. I've since toned it down, but it still packs a spicy wallop - you are forewarned. You can omit the dried chilis if you want to cut down even more.



gotta get a better lighting source...



Sichuan Soba & Scallops
Makes 2 full servings with scallops + some extra noodles to put aside for lunch

*6-8 sea scallops
*Approximately 10 oz soba noodles (three bundles)
*Neutral oil

*1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns (can be ordered from Penzy's, or even Amazon.com)
*A couple dried red chilis (optional)

*3 cloves garlic, minced

*1 teaspoon minced ginger
*2 scallions, white part & green parts separated and sliced
*2 tablespoons light soy sauce
*1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
*A scant 1/4 cup chili oil
*1 tablespoon Chinese sesame paste


Wash and thoroughly dry your scallops, making sure to trim the muscle off the sides if need be. Put water on to boil for the soba noodles. Lightly toast the peppercorns until fragrant in a wok and then grind in a spice grinder, reserving a pinch of fine peppercorn dust. Add a bit of oil to the wok and fry the ground peppercorns and the chilis (if using) for about 30 seconds over medium high before adding the garlic, ginger, and white parts of the scallions. Stir-fry for about 30 more seconds before pouring in the combined liquid ingredients. Lower the heat to the other side of the dial and cook the mixture for about 3 minutes.


Meanwhile, heat a cast-iron skillet on medium-high and season the scallops with the pinch of peppercorn, and kosher salt. When the skillet is hot add a glug of oil and swirl it around. Lay the scallops in and sear on each side for about a minute and a half.

Drain the soba noodles after 5ish minutes of boiling (or according to package instructions), rinse, drain again, and then toss with the sauce. Ladle into bowls, arrange the scallops on top, and garnish with the sliced green parts of the scallions. You could also garnish with chopped cilantro, sliced fresh Thai chilis, sauteed greens, a fried egg, whatever you want. May the 'ma la' tingle be with you.

Alternately, make it with bay scallops: just saute for a shorter period, about a minute total, and toss with sauce 'n soba



Chicken, Shrimp & Andouille Gumbo

My friend Dr. John'll help to set the proper mood for this post; gumbo always tastes better with some hippie bayou psychedelia stirred into the roux. Speaking of, making the roux is always a slightly thrilling affair. There's a heightened tension while the roux darkens as you swiftly whisk it around the pot, and, when you've achieved a perfect rich brown hue without having burned it, the satisfaction is intoxicating. 

I've been making this recipe for years, it's one of a prized handful that I have soaked into my bones and can make by memory and intuition now. Honestly, I don't have a hard-and-fast origin for it...I'm sure some aspects were cribbed from tips on Chowhound threads, perhaps others from Paul Prudhomme, but it has since evolved into something more or less my own. Now it's yours, too.   

Chicken, Shrimp and Andouille Gumbo

Serves 4-6

*1-2 lbs bone-in, skin-on chicken parts (thighs are my go-to parts), trimmed of excess fat

*4 cups chicken stock

*1 1/2 cups water

*5 bay leaves

*1 generous tablespoon of Cajun seasoning. I highly recommend making your own; store bought just doesn't cut it. I loosely follow Emeril's Essence recipe, which is great. I lessen the salt and the thyme somewhat and add a smidge of home ground mulatto chile powder.

*1/2 cup fat (in order of personal preference - duck fat, bacon fat, neutral oil, butter. Butter burns the easiest, but sure is tasty. Use what you will.)

*1/2 cup flour

*'Holy trinity' - one cup each of diced yellow onion, celery, green bell pepper. Try for a dice that doesn't exceed 1/2in.

*3-4 minced cloves of garlic

*Half a small can of diced tomatoes, partially drained

*Tabasco hot sauce

*Healthy pinches of dried thyme, oregano, paprika, red pepper flakes, cayenne, salt & pepper

*2-3 andouille sausage links

*1/3-1/2 lb shrimp

*Cooked rice

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the chicken, and boil for a minute or two before draining and rinsing the chicken off - this step removes some impurities from the chicken. Rinse the pot out and add the stock, water, bay leaves and seasoning, along with a sprinkling of salt, and bring to a boil. Add the chicken back to the pot, reduce the heat to medium-low, and poach for 25-30 minutes until the chicken is just cooked through.

Remove the pieces and set aside; strain & skim fat from 4 cups of cooking liquid to reserve for the gumbo. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, loosely shred chicken meat, tossing the skin and bones. I recommend using the oh, cuppish or so of leftover cooking liquid to supplement the water for the rice - gives the rice an added boost of flavor. I also usually make a side of macque choux, which uses some up, too.

 Make the roux- heat your fat in a large dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high to high heat, and when it gets hot sprinkle in the flour, whisking constantly. Continue to whisk thoroughly and constantly - and quickly! until roux cooks to a deep reddish-brown color. No lighter than the caramel color of peanut butter allowed - I usually go for the color of milk chocolate but have been known to call it quits a little before that if my hands are screaming at me. The time this takes really depends on how high you’re comfortable with placing the heat. I usually whisk for about 15 minutes at medium-high heat before the darkening starts to quicken, and then a couple minutes more until it's at the desired level of doneness, but if you set the heat to a comfortable medium, you might be whisking for 30+ minutes. Feel free to modulate the temperature if that makes it easier. If you see black specks, the roux is burnt and you’ll need to throw it out and try, try again. Don't go burning yourself whilst whipping up a maelstrom in the roux; it is as hot as its nickname, 'cajun napalm', would suggest.

Remove the pot from the heat once the roux looks right and immediately stir in the trinity and minced garlic. A grand sizzle will resound as applause for a roux well done. Return pot to medium-low heat and cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables are starting to soften, about 4-5 mins. Slowwwwwly stir in the reserved 4 cups of chicken liquid and the diced tomatoes, making sure to adequately blend the mixture after each liquid addition. Add two bay leaves, a couple shakes a'piece of dried thyme and oregano, a scant half-teaspoon of cayenne (or whatever you’re comfortable with, heat-wise), a few healthy dashes of Tabasco, salt & pepper, a few shakes of red pepper flakes, a good dash or two of paprika, a spangling of Cajun seasoning and a pinch of sugar. All of this is to personal taste, so adjust accordingly. Turn heat to high and bring to a boil. Immediately after it boils bring the heat down and simmer for at least an hour, or indefinitely. I usually let it go for about 2, but I've sometimes transferred it to a crock pot after that point and kept it on low for half a day. 

Meanwhile, brown one or two bias-sliced andouille links or other sausage of your choice (andouille is best, of course) in a pan and then add to the gumbo along with reserved chicken about 30-45 mins into its simmer. A few minutes before soup's on, throw the shelled, deveined shrimp in the gumbo pot until they are just cooked through. Fish out the bay leaves and then ladle the gumbo over rice and garnish with some chopped scallions or parsley if you'd like some green.